The quirky and finicky, yet faithful, charismatic, and tough as nails Delilah pulled out on highway 1 and began the quest. Adventure, I just read in my surf magazine, does not start until something goes wrong. Getting lost on the most insane roads I have ever seen, careening brakeless down the hill of death towards a speeding semi, and running out of food camping in the middle of nowhere, adventure did not escape us. Yet somehow things turned out ok. In fact, we had the time of our lives as we danced laps around the Costa Rican coast lines. This is what we came up with.
Tamarindo
As the final 20 km stretch of dirt roads leads you into Tamarindo, you will notice massive construction projects taking place. Tamarindo is a picturesque beach and surfing destination and travelers from around the world have taken notice.
Read the Tamarindo Surf Guide
Nosara
Don't confuse the town of Nosara with the general beach community of Nosara. The town itself is not on the ocean and the surf center is actually next to Playa Guillones. We discovered this fact after getting lost on a maze of crater filled roads in the dark. Finally popping up at Blew Dogs hotel and hostel complex, we found ourselves in a surfing oasis.
Read the Nosara Surf Guide
Malpais
The drive from Nosara to Mal Pais never lacked excitement. We decided to help some Ticos push their broken down truck up a long hill. As we did our best world's strongest man impersonation, the heavens dropped a waterfall on our heads. Driving again, it was difficult to avoid the large holes because the road was quickly turning into a river. Lightning struck a little too close, which rattled the windows and made us film our last will and testament.
Read the Malpais Surf Guide
Jaco
Jaco is the closest beach and surfing destination to San Jose. It offers a full buffet of tourist activities, from shopping to surfing to an abundance of night life. Like so many towns before it, Jaco is a great example of the continuous profanation of a sacred place. Full bars exist solely for sex tourism. The main road through town is packed with surf shops, stores selling any Costa Rican trinket imaginable, western style mall, restaurants, and of course, night clubs. Still, the natural beauty of the long beach and surrounding cliffs and mountains can not be ignored.
Read the Jaco Surf Guide
Playa Esterillos
Laid back and super friendly, staying at the small town of Esterillos is all about surf and great folks. The people welcomed us with open arms. An old grizzled fisherman pointed us to the limited collection of restaurants and bars without us asking for directions. We even went to a huge pig roast where the townspeople got their portion of fried pig and Roger's super karaoke machine at El Barrilito.
Read the Playa Esterillos Surf Guide
Dominical
Take a breath and relax at Dominical where crowds are not a factor in the water or in the streets. Referred to as a "hippie town" by more than one person, we were invited to a full moon waterfall funfest somewhere in the mountains. Completely unsure of directions, we found the party club, Roca Verde. Mostly packed with Costa Ricans, the Latin lovers sweated up the chili hot dance floor with hip swiveling fast action moves.
Read the Dominical Surf Guide
Matapalo
A tough four wheel drive vehicle is necessary to access Matapalo. To get there, you must cross muddy trenches and steep embankments. The lack of passable roads and development lends to the large diversity of wildlife that exists on the Osa Peninsula. Buy supplies in Jimenez because there are no stores or anything really around. There are a few spendy hotel compounds but no budget hostels. Pull your car right up to the beach and camp directly in front of the break.
Read the Matapalo Surf Guide
Pavones
Pavones is a surf Mecca. One of the most sought after waves in the world, you can catch rides that will make your legs ache when conditions permit. The left point break runs the entire length of the small town. The little pueblo exists almost entirely for surf tourists.
Read the Pavones Surf Guide
On the Road, and Boca Barranca
We came from Pavones to Monteverde to visit my friend Zach, a drive from the deepest south of the country all the way up north. This path requires a drive over Cerro de Muerte, the hill of death. The car actually shut off going down the mountain and the breaks ceased to function. I swung the car across the other lane into the only existing shoulder, jammed on the e-brake to stop just before the end of the turn out as a semi blared its horn reeling right for us. That was a close one.
We did not quite make it to Monteverde that night, stopping the 10 hour journey near a river mouth surf spot called Boca Barranca. The town of Barranca was not a pretty sight, just dirty and bland. The people were probably the least friendly we met the entire time in Costa Rica. I pulled the car up to the mouth of the river to check conditions. The wave broke in a perfect A-frame, showing off unlimited potential. The swell was very small, a man tried to make me pay to park, and the river was spitting nasty brown sludge into the take off zone. That, and saltwater crocodiles rumored to be lurking deterred me form surfing spot number 13.
Monteverde and Arenal
Entering the cloud forests of Monteverde, we found Zach and Anywhere Costa Rica headquarters. He set us up with a thrilling zip line ride across gorgeous biologically diverse canopies. Eleven lines sent us flying almost 2000 feet high and close to 3000 feet long, whooping as we disappeared into the mist. The next day we soaked our bones in cold and hot pools at Hotel Los Lagos, situated at the foot of the towering active volcano. We drove to the side of Arenal that was spitting electric orange fire rocks across the mountain's giant face.
Puerto Viejo
Discover an entirely different side of Costa Rica on its eastern shore. A warm and vibrant surf community thrives in Puerto Viejo.
Read the full Puerto Viejo Surf Guide
